Panthenol has Become the Wallflower of Skin and Hair Care
Lise
Just as the fashion world trends with ever-changing, up-to-the-minute designs, so does the world of cosmetics ingredients. Today we’re going to examine an ingredient that has been around for so many years, no one seems to remember a time when it was perceived as sexy, exciting, or media worthy.
Panthenol (also D-panthenol dexpanthenol, D-pantothenyl alcohol, and provitamin B-5) has (undeservedly) become a wallflower in the world of cosmetic ingredients.
That's really unfair, because panthenol (INCI: Panthenol) is a wonderful substance with loads to offer in both skin and hair care products.
Where It's From
Panthenol is sourced from d-pantolactone (a component of honey as well as other foods) and is the alcohol form of pantothenic acid. Since you ask: pantothenic acid is present in all living cells and is essential for normal metabolism and hormone production.
What Panthenol Can Do
Panthenol will magically morph into vitamin B5 when it comes into contact with living cells (for example, when it we apply it to our skin). If we apply panthenol to our hair (which has no living cells), panthenol isn't the least bit impressed and remains in its panthenol state.
This is why you may have heard panthenol referred to as ‘pro-vitamin B5’.
Panthenol needs contact with living cells in order to become a vitamin. Regardless of its state, panthenol is a beneficial addition to both hair and body products.
Panthenol For Hair
Applied to hair, panthenol functions as a humectant, emollient, and moisturizer. It happily binds to the hair shaft, coating the hair and sealing the surface in a protective layer that both adds shine and lubricates the shaft.
Panthenol For Skin
Panthenol has an excellent ability to improve hydration of the skin by retaining moisture, lubricating, and helping to stabilize the skins metabolism and skin tone.
It is also great for reducing itching and inflammation, making it an ideal choice as an ingredient in products for sunburns and burns. It's ideal for aiding the healing process after getting a tattoo.
As it is water-soluble, it can be mixed with skin soothing liquids such as aloe vera juice and/or herbal hydrosols to make a soothing 'tattoo tonic'.
It is a wonderfully moisture-boosting addition to any skin tonic.
Tried and True
Back in the 1950's, the benefits of panthenol were discovered in a study on patients with severe burn wounds. The study, published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, showed that wounds treated with an ointment containing 5% panthenol showed an accelerated healing process.
This kickstarted more research on its uses – both for positive and negative effects. Panthenol has repeatedly passed tests with flying colors, showing no negative side effects or reactions – regardless of short or long term use.
A 2015 study (on humans) showed “…treatment of skin wounds with different dexpanthenol containing preparations clearly enhanced wound closure compared to untreated or vaseline treated controls.” ref
Find links to more info below - it’s nothing but happy discoveries when you start researching this ingredient.
LisaLise Panthenol Use
I have worked with this ingredient for many years and it is a stockroom stable. I don’t believe I can point to a single time where it has disappointed or failed - quite the opposite.
Do Tell
Have you worked with panthenol? What did you use it in and what were your experiences? Please share in a comment below.
More About Panthenol
Compound summary: Panthenol
Journal of Cosmetics Science: skin moisturising effects of panthenol-based formulations
Special Chem: Profile of panthenol
Cochrane Central register of Controlled Trials: Topical Panthenol-containing emollient
Intensive panthenol therapy of lupus erythemotosus (Journal of Investigative Dermatology)
